The Rhythm of One

Book Cover

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A Special Note to our Female Readers
Book Content
Topics
Basic Level
Intermediate Level
Advanced Level
Knife Guide
About the Authors

about the authors

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About the Authors

David Decker has been a student and collector of edged weaponry since the age of twelve. His first love of swords was inspired by the romantic novel “Scottish Chiefs” written by Jane Porter. Formal instruction in GoJu Ryu karate and Yagyu Shinkage Ryu kenjutsu came much later while he was in his forties. He has read everything he could find in print on the subject of knife-fighting and related blade arts. He is also a student of religion, theology, and mythology, ordained as a Celtic priest, and is eternally in search of the “Pure Warrior.”

Gwynne Decker began studying karate several months before her father, at the age of twelve. She also trains in Yagyu Shinkage Ryu. Together with her father, they operate a small dojo in their hometown of Addison, NY, where they teach karate, knife defense, and iaido. Gwynne graduated from Hobart and William Smith Colleges in 2004 Magna cum Laude with a degree in Asian Studies. She travels extensively to East Asia for pleasure, business, and to continue her training in Yagyu Shinkage Ryu in Nagoya, Japan.

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Knife Guide

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Knife Guide

In the book there is a complete chapter on training equipment and choosing a fighting or self-defense knife located here.

NEVER USE LIVE BLADES IN PAIRED TRAINING! Even WITH taped blades THEY are too dangerous!

In my opinion the best rubber training knives are, the Applegate/Fairbairn®[1] replicas made of a stiff, durable rubber allowing hard contact while still flexing in a thrust. They are not cheap ($18.00/pair at the time of writing) but they are well worth the money. The wooden tanto is the most commonly found training knife and is sold by practically every martial arts supplier. These tanto work fairly well and are usually inexpensive. If money is tight you can make your own knives. Use any scrap of hardwood, but be sure that the point is well blunted and that you apply a wood sealer to reduce splintering. Aluminum training knives are available from several custom makers[2]. If you become serious about your practice I would suggest buying an aluminum or wooden knife that duplicates your personal carry knife. I make my own training knives with aluminum blades fitted with wooden grips. I sell these and solid hardwood knives in presentation grade figured maple and other exotic woods on special order. Knife is a blunted five dollar folder, and is an inexpensive commercial aluminum training knife.

D~S #6 Cobra Self defense Knife

In high-risk areas I prefer to carry fixed blade knives despite their added bulk and difficulty to conceal. My preference is based on their ready availability, not having to fumble around to open one, and their inherent strength. For practical everyday carry, my knife choice is a Benchmade® CQC-7 or a 910 Stryker, both liner-lock designs. In my continuing search for an ideal fixed blade knife in a reasonable size, with all of the attributes I desired, I contacted my friend Brent Sandow to make my latest knife (17), the D~S #6 as shown here, (top of photo). This is prototype #001, which Brent named the Cobra. This photo is a timeline of sorts, of the evolution of a single design concept as my understanding of the requirements in a self-defense knife matured.

[1] The Applegate/Fairbairn® fighting knife was designed by Colonels Rex Applegate and William Ewart Fairbairn post WII as an improvement of the renowned Fairbairn/Sykes Fighting Knife.
[2] EDGES2® is a company that manufactures the highest quality aluminum knives I have seen.

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Advanced Level

Introduction

In this section, the techniques will require a more aggressive mindset and a much higher level of training than previously expected and the hazy boundary between knife defense and offense becomes even more difficult to distinguish.

Tri-Angles

Once you have become comfortable with the basics of Diagonal-Stepping, as discussed in the intermediate section, you can advance to using two diagonals to apply another concept called Triangles. Triangles are used in many martial arts such as Karate, Judo, Jujutsu, and Aikido. You will be using triangles as a method of evading and entering. This technique allows you to drive deeply into the ma-ai of the attacker, taking away his center, disrupting his energy, balance, base, and his sense of timing all in one move. Triangles are most effective when used to counter a linear technique whether a knife thrust or a straight kick and when using your middle or lower blocks. As you read through this section please refer to these simple diagrams on triangles. The triangles are created by laying out several imaginary lines.

Performed correctly, the attacker will be thrown uncontrollably backward and with great force. While performing this move there is a concern that the attacker may try to throw a punch with his left hand, which at this moment lies precariously close to the right side of your face. Be aware of this possibility and be ready to tuck your head low allowing your pushing hand and arm to block his punch.

The Octagon, Eight Angles Of Attack And Defense

The philosophy of using geometry in the fighting arts was at one time common knowledge throughout Europe. It reached perfection in the Spanish schools of rapier and dagger. The Spanish made a precise science out of what had previously been viewed as an art. Despite having said this was not a step by step book I want to describe a training concept that may help you visualize all of those inner and outer lines, triangles, ma-ai, etc. that have been discussed to this point.

Experimentation with this table and chart will reveal stepping combinations that I have missed, or may lead you to discard ones that I have given, feeling that they do not work for you. That is fine, it shows that you are thinking and training. Some of the angles may be awkward and less effective. Do not totally ignore them. Explore different ways in which they might be used to your advantage. You will not always be afforded the luxury of using the “best” line or angle.

Early Timing

Early timing is when you have practiced enough to correctly “read” the attackers intention and angle of attack. Once this is known you can move into his ma-ai, interrupting his motion while his arm or leg is still being cocked for an attack.
Never accept the full force of an attack if you can step out of reach or redirect it!

Keep in mind that early timing may be impossible in situations involving a complete surprise attack.

Late Timing

Late timing is where the attacker has made his first full thrust or slash and due to the element of surprise or fear you react by letting it pass by. This passing by is the count of one. As the knife passes you should follow it in on the “half-beat”[1] moving in to trap his arm, or otherwise restrict his movement. At the same time you should also deliver a series of blows to disarm him and terminate his attack.

Mugamae and Other Stances

Taking the time to assume a “proper” fighting stance will create a suki (mental gap or void) that may cost you your life!

Every author or instructor seems to have a favorite fighting stance and they spend a lot of time explaining why theirs is better than every one else’s. Quite often their entire system is based around this one stance. Therefore I would be remiss if I ignored this most important element of defense. My preferred stance is called mugamae[2].

The act of taking a fighting stance openly advertises your intention to defend yourself and how you might be intending to go about it. This is not something you want your attacker to know, keep him guessing. Therefore your stance should appear as no-stance, mugamae
It is imperative that you understand the difference between a static posture and a “dead” posture. Never stand with both feet equally weighted! Think about this.

The Monk’s Posture

This is one of my favorite stances. It is deceivingly non-confrontational, appearing to be submissive and totally passive. The monk’s posture gives your attacker a false sense of confidence. To assume the monk’s posture settle your weight into your hips and slightly flex your knees. Drop your gaze so that you are looking peripherally, out from the tops of your eyes, like looking over the top of eyeglasses. Looking this way your gaze will not be direct, and therefore not “readable,” nor threatening. Your arms should be relaxed, crossed and lightly folded on your chest.

Hittatsu no Hyoshi

Hittatsu no Hyoshi means a rhythm, or timing, of one, or just “One”. It is an
action not done to a count of one….....two, but rather, onetwo with no break in motion or rhythm. So when you are attacked you do not block and counter, you blockcounter simultaneously. Hittatsu no Hyoshi may be done empty hand, with two hands, a hand and a foot, or any number of combinations. It can also be done with a knife, either blocking empty handed and cutting in one move, or blocking and cutting with the knife while striking with a foot, a knee or the other hand. Only your co-ordination and imagination limit the possibilities.

In training karate students I have discovered that many times there are moves
used as building blocks that over-complicate a technique. If you do not have years to spend learning them there are steps that can be eliminated. There should be only one move! This concept requires a mental posture of “attack” only. To make it work your attack must erupt from a state of complete focus without tension. Re-read the section on Kime. This concept is the central part of my strategy and teaching! Ironically it is also one of the smaller segments in the book. It is a concept that must be learned and cannot be taught step by step. If you practice with an open mind and work hard the multiple possibilities of Hittatsu no Hyoshi will eventually reveal themselves to you.

Advanced Use of the Knife

Targeting, Where and What, to attack?

No matter whether your philosophy, or knife practice, is reactive (you wait), or proactive (you attack), the closest and safest targets are the attacker’s extremities: hands, wrists, legs, and arms. Whenever these come into range, strike at them. Being careful to avoid traps or feints, cut at these targets while remaining outside of your attacker’s reach whenever possible. If you have a knife and you are of smaller stature or are physically weaker, it is imperative that you wear down or “worry” your attacker with a series of sniping cuts to his wrists and hands. Continue to do this until you can either discourage him, escape from the area, or take advantage of a gap in his defenses to terminate the conflict.
William Fairbairn’s WW-II manual “Get Tough” contains this chart (42) that outlines vascular system illustrates our primary targets. Keep in mind that the cuts described in this chart are intended for killing enemy combatants. Severing any of these can cause unconsciousness and death in under a minute.

Defenses Against Thrusts

Technique #2: against a high thrust to your right, using the defensive posture.

When the attacker thrusts to the right side of your blade, react to his attack by driving your knife straight forward from where it lies by your right hip in a high thrust, mirroring your attacker’s move. The point of your knife should initially be aimed toward his right shoulder, your knife angled across your body. Stepping out to your left front with your left foot, your body should lean to the left. As your thrust is extended the tip of your knife will end up aimed straight for the attacker’s eyes.

[1] A “Half beat” is when you move on a count between one and two, taking control of the rhythm from the attacker.
[2] Mugamae can be translated as, “the stance of no stance”.

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Intermediate Level

Close-in Fighting

The tournament style martial arts-mentality teaches that for a smaller person to win or to be competitive they must fight “close-in.”[1] In theory I do not disagree with this assumption, but this close-in philosophy assumes that you are already a skilled fighter. Many contemporary authors and knife fighting instructors advocate this “close-in” strategy. You should question whether this is because it will work for the average guy or gal on the street, or because these instructors are highly skilled and it works for them? Fighting close-in with knives might be compared to rolling around in a barrel of splintered glass. No matter which way you turn you are going to get cut! With this analogy in mind you will appreciate why I personally do not advocate close-in fighting. As a reminder, this book is written specifically for the untrained, smaller, weaker person, and for women, all of whom are too often the targets of criminals and who are ill suited for close-in fighting.

Coming to Grips

You may only have one chance to disarm or defeat your attacker without suffering serious personal injury or loss of life. Your chances for success hinge upon your composure, awareness, and timing. Almost without exception the direction of an attack can be predicted by observing which of the four following grips the attacker is using. “Almost” is the key word here. A skilled knife-fighter may change his grip in mid-attack or change his angle of attack during mid-stroke. A completely unskilled person may use the knife in totally unpredictable and illogical ways. An attacker, no matter how skilled, will probably start out using simple moves, assuming you are easy prey.

The Ice Pick Grip

The most elementary grip, the one often used in horror flicks, is the theatrical “Ice Pick” grip. Ironically a slight variation of this called the reverse grip, is the hallmark of a highly skilled knife-fighter. The ice-pick grip, commonly ridiculed by “professional” knife fighters, provides very powerful overhand strikes. Knife strikes of this type were used during the Middle Ages to penetrate a knight’s heavy armor for the coup de’ grace.[2] When held in this grip the knife can also deliver very powerful slashes. Fortunately for the defender these strikes and slashes are quite limited in range of motion and probably the most easily avoided by using simple diagonal stepping.

Probable attack #1: Overhead Stab

It is very important that you move off center, out from under any overhead strikes rather than trying to block them! As mentioned before, these strikes can quite easily break through most karate forearm, or “X” cross blocks, with predictably dire results. Your best move is to step out to your left with your left foot (the attacker’s right side) and redirect the attacker’s strike (3) by using his own energy to guide his arm in a natural arc, driving his knife into his own leg or groin area (4).

Shown here (4) is the termination of the overhead stab as it is guided by the defender into the attacker’s own leg. She is using a soft circular movement that relies on the attacker’s own energy for his undoing.

Ma-ai: Small Word, Big Concept

My studies in karate and kenjutsu have provided me with certain Japanese phrases that I prefer to use to explain certain martial arts concepts. For the reader remembering the words is not important, but learning their meaning is very important.

The first of these concepts I want to discuss is
Ma-ai. Ma-ai is an excellent example of the multiple layered definitions these terms possess. Ma-ai is a Japanese word that roughly translates as “distance”. Remember what I said about keeping a safe distance in the section on awareness? Ma-ai is not a distance measurable in feet or inches, but distance relative to combative engagement. Ma-ai is also one aspect related to the mystical circle or octagon that European rapier duelists studied. I will discuss the octagon in greater detail in the advanced section of the book.

Partially defined, ma-ai is the span from which a successful attack can be launched or rebuffed. These two distances, defending and attacking, may or may not be identical. The distance of engagement is determined by a number of things.

Hollowing out; a bad technique

Like the “Filipino Grip”, there is another technique whose use I completely disagree with. At least one well known self-defense instructor relies heavily on a technique called “hollowing out”. I do not doubt his personal abilities, but I do not approve of this technique! Hollowing out (16) is where you suck in your stomach and bend deeply at the waist to give yourself a “safe” margin against a thrust or slash. I am sure that even the most lethargic of attackers can out-maneuver your hollowed-out, backwards-stumbling figure. This is an example of one of the worst instinctual moves that can occur when you have nothing else to rely on.

Passing with a Weapon

Let us assume for a moment that you are the one with the knife, and that you initiate a strike or cut and your attacker performs a block (23). Your natural response is to retract your arm and try again but if the attacker checks your arm you are in trouble. Passing with a weapon provides you with the means of continuing your attack.

Leg Sweeps

Since we are discussing methods of stepping let us consider leg sweeps. Leg Sweeps (30a,b,c) are techniques usually reserved for the trained martial artist. Using the outside line sets you up so perfectly for a sweep that I hate to pass it by. Believe me you can do this with very little practice! Leg sweeps are blindingly fast techniques.

To Aggress or not

Every writer and instructor has a differing opinion on whether you as the defender should, or should not, initiate the action when threatened. We talked about making these choices in the very early chapters of the book. My advice to you is again based upon the philosophy of the 16th century Yagyu Shinkage Ryu teachings. (By the way, if you are wondering whether four-hundred-year old sword techniques and philosophy are suitable for modern knife work or defense, trust me, they are!) Good techniques are timeless, that is why they have survived to this day and continue to be taught. The only effect the length of a weapon has on strategy is slightly altering the timing, speed, and obviously the distancing.

Waiting, rather than attacking, offers you a number of possibilities.

· One: Your aggressor may take your calm demeanor as a sign of confidence and skill and back off.
· Two: When either person attacks they have committed to a line of motion. If you have waited the options are now yours, of parrying, counter-attacking or just backing off. You have the advantage of knowing what they are doing; they have to guess at your response.

“Counter-attack is considered the Master’s attack.”[3]

Useful gaps in your defense

When discussing the choice between aggressing or waiting we inevitably come to the notion of providing a secure defense. Centuries ago it was discovered that every castle should be purposely built with a “weak” spot. Eventually those laying siege will “discover” this weak spot, which you of course have set as a trap. The understanding of leaving a gap (suki) must be learned through actual training.

Killing Snakes

The tactic of beating the grass can be used to startle your opponent causing him to attack. For example, you feint, the attacker responds, but he aborts his response when he realizes it is a feint. Then as the opponent withdraws his counter attack you follow him in, without any hesitation, with your originally intended attack. This is called a double feint in some schools. Timing is critical with this technique! As I mentioned before, one notable knife instructor advises: “Watch the hands it’s the hands that will kill you!”[4] Watch them too closely and they just might. Remember to use peripheral vision and watch your attacker’s shoulders or the center of the chest. Any hand movement will be naturally detected.

Some Very Basic Knife Techniques

I did not set out to teach knife fighting in this book but I have decided to explain a few of the techniques knife-fighters use. It is obvious that familiarity with the art of knife fighting will give you deeper insights into defense against the knife and vice versa.

One basic knife technique is the “snap cut”. A snap cut (35) is a very quick, reflexive, whipping cut that uses speed more than power. A snap cut may use either the tip of the knife or the full length of the edge. The desired result is not a conclusive, death-dealing blow, but a quick, bold cut that will distract, disable and hopefully disarm your attacker. Snap cuts are usually targeted at the hands and the tendons of the wrist.

De-fanging the snake may also be performed empty handed without the benefit of a knife. The best method is to direct a strike to the tendons on the back of the attacker’s knife hand using a kubotan, closed folding knife (36), or the butt of a fixed blade knife. Always remember that in this way a knife may be used in a non-lethal capacity.

[1] “Close-in” means that you may strike, or be struck, without you or your attacker taking any steps.
[2] The finishing stroke ending the life of the defeated combatant in mortal combat.

[3] Echanis, Michael. Knife Fighting, Throwing for Combat. Burbank: O’Hara Publishing, 1978.

[4] Hockheim, Hoch. “Counters to Knife Quick Draws.” Close Quarter Combat. July 2001: 23.

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Basic Level

Introduction

The material presented in this book is in what I hope to be a logical progression, assuming that you have no training, advancing from empty-hand to a knife-in-hand defense. This progression implies an escalation of violence and legal liability. This book was not written for those who are interested in becoming a proficient knife fighter. Although some of the techniques in the advanced section will help you become proficient using a knife they are still intended to be used defensively not offensively. I do not advocate problem-solving through the application of edged weapons! The techniques described herein, which deal with knife-on-knife encounters, are not meant to encourage or romanticize dueling. They are to be used in a purely defensive, last ditch manner or as a deterrent to violence.

The Elements of Conflict

Every conflict contains certain elements within it. I have listed them as they came to mind and not in any special order. Every person reacts differently under the stress of conflict. Some people may easily control some of these elements, while they may be totally beyond the control of other people. In the following pages we will consider various ways of facing these elements of conflict, adapting to them, and using them to our advantage whenever possible, minimizing the effects of those we can’t overcome.

Basic Elements of Conflict

· Fear / Anger / Surprise
· Adrenaline
· Armed / Un-armed
· Physical parity
· Speed
· Fortitude
· Environment
· Timing
· Training
· Stamina
· Distance
· Rhythm

Knife-Fighting Misconceptions

There are a few misconceptions about knives, and knife fighting, that I want to address early in the book.
· One: Defending yourself against a knife is not just another collection of flashy martial arts techniques, or a leisure sporting activity.
· Two: There are no sure defenses against a knife attack.
· Three: At close range a knife is far more dangerous than a firearm. Wm. Fairbairn, in his obscure text on fighting with the Cobra knife, concluded by saying that, “There is no defense against an opponent attacking with a knife.”[1]

Awareness & Focus

Now, think about it, the only reason for even needing the information in this book is because you have gotten into a situation, that with some forethought, you might have avoided.
Awareness is the primary component of any self-defense!

Inattentiveness will allow you to take a wrong turn into “the bad part of town”, walk lackadaisically down a poorly lit street, park your car in a remote or unprotected area, or unexpectedly take a knife in the stomach. These are the bottom lines. Pay attention to your surroundings, not only now, but thinking ahead to when you may be walking alone to your parked car after dark. Pay equal attention to your “gut feelings” about places and situations. Places that are marginally safe in the light of day become the dominion of murderers, muggers, and rapists when night falls. Think ahead!

The effects clothing can have on self defense

Most of the techniques in this book were developed and tested in our dojo[2], either in sneakers or barefoot. Admittedly this does not simulate reality-based training. It is a quirk typical of the martial arts to work barefoot. The transition in techniques from barefoot to sneakers or street shoes is a small one. The transition from barefoot to high-heeled pumps is going to be substantial!

The ability to defend yourself is seriously diminished if you are accosted while wearing narrow heels over one to two inches high. Your situation is even more precarious if the shoes do not tie, or if they lack some form of ankle strap. In the action movie “Romancing the Stone©” the hero, Jack, streamlines Joan’s stiletto heeled footwear by whacking the offending heels off with his machete.[3] That is great script writing, assuming you happen to have a machete handy, but in reality the shoes would then be unusable. (If you should be lucky enough to have a machete you would not need to worry about what shoes you’re wearing anyway!) Obviously, the taller and more spiked the heels are, the more of a liability they become in a life threatening situation.
heeled, soft soled shoes, with some form of straps or ties. These should be worn when traveling to and from work, or to the parking garage. I know that this is not a convenient solution but neither is a trip to the morgue or the rape crisis center. This second option would obviously require carrying a small shoe bag in addition to your usual handbag. On the bright side this solution would keep your dress shoes from getting scuffed up and driving would be much easier and safer in low heel shoes. Choose your shoe bag wisely, preferably one with a stout carrying strap, so that it can double as a striking weapon in an emergency.

One method of concealed self-defense is this diminutive key ring knife by Gray Bradburn of Wichita, KS would be an excellent choice. This tiny knife provides you with a weapon and your keys all in one hand. I liked these so much that I bought one for myself and one for my daughter.

The Effects of Adrenaline and Fear

In situations like that discussed in the earlier Awareness and Focus sections, your adrenaline will be flowing as you assess your situation and the possible consequences of your inattentiveness. In this instance your adrenaline-saturated fear can be an enemy or an ally.

“Fear is your friend, it makes you quick and sharpens your responses. The man who is not afraid is a fool, a scared man is cautious….if he knows what to do beforehand he is prepared.”[4] ~Vince

I do not think I can improve upon Vince’s advice. There are seminars and schools[5] that claim to teach you how to deal with the effects of “adrenal dump[6]” through simulated verbal and physical assault. I do not know whether this type of training can help you overcome your natural responses to fear. The effects of adrenaline are very real and can give you tremendous strength and courage, or leave you shaking and completely paralyzed.

Scared Bear or Predator?

There are four basic types of attackers. How do we intend to deal with these types? There are generally only two options. These “solutions” were offered by another good friend who teaches Fencing, Saber, Rapier, and Dagger, and many other forms of European sword work. He shared this bit of wisdom that he, in turn, inherited from his teacher. “In a duel there are only two choices. The other person attacks and you kill them. Or you attack and you kill them.”[7] Read this a couple of times until it sinks in. Is this realistic, fatalistic, or just plain morbid? There really are no other choices, not if you want to survive. This is the resolute mindset that you will need to deal with possibly serious injuries and wounds and still walk away victorious.
Now that you’ve roughly determined what sub-species of humanity you are facing, and they have produced a weapon, a number of things radically change. First, now you are morally and perhaps legally justified in using whatever force is necessary to protect your life. Secondly, now you can begin to determine your attacker’s skill level, and quite reasonably predict how he will launch his attack. I know that all of this is happening in a few seconds time! This is why you need to be focused and aware.

The direction and manner of an impending attack can often be deduced just by the way an attacker stands or by how he is gripping his knife, stick etc.

Introduction to the four knife grips

There are four natural ways in which a knife can be held. Every knife-fighting book ever written has covered this topic, for the edification of the knife-fighter. What makes this book different is that you will learn in the coming pages why this information is vitally important to you the intended victim. Later I will describe these grips in more detail, beginning with the one considered the most common and unskilled, progressing to the most advanced. This is not to imply that any of them are less dangerous! The four most common grips to watch for are the “Ice Pick”, “Hammer”, “Fencer’s”, and “Reverse” grip.

It is very important to remember that there is no such thing as a simple “touch” with a knife. When you begin your paired training do not become complacent about a hit from your partner’s rubber or wooden knife. In real life this could be a devastating cut! You must learn to gauge the angle of attack and how to parry, deflect, or block that attack because you can not hope to stop steel with flesh and bone.

Any and all contact with a knife, even accidental, may cause serious, even permanent, INJURY or DEATH!

Three Ranges of Defense

There are three basic ranges in fighting whether you are fighting empty-handed or using weapons. The terms can be simple or complex, depending upon the particular school or culture. I have chosen to use Close-in, In-range, and Long-range. Simply put, Close-in means that you and your opponent can strike each other without any stepping. In-range means that you and your opponent can reach each other by taking only one step. Long-range requires that either or both of you take several steps before contact can be made. This section is very short because it can only be learned through training and not by reading.

Three Levels Of Parrying/Deflecting/Blocking

What are the differences between these three terms? Are there substantial differences? I consider parrying and deflecting to be synonymous, as well as the term “slipping a punch.” Here are what I consider to be the three levels (8).

· Upper level: for attacks to the head coming from high overhead either from a high slash, ice pick style stab, or a “round-house” punch.
· Middle level: for attacks targeted at the area lying between your solar plexus and groin.
· Lower level: for attacks from the groin down to the lower extremities of the legs and feet.

Two Simple Kicks

There are two simple kicks that you should learn. They are both low-level kicks and require no great athletic ability or formal martial arts training. They are a forty-five degree pushing sidekick and a straight in stop kick. These kicks are best described by referring to the illustrations. The forty-five degree kick works best when you use an outside line. The stop kick is for when you stay centered or move to the inside line. The hoped for result in each case is to sprain or break the attacker’s knee.

Caution: Any kick may place your leg in a position to be trapped, cut, or stabbed! You may need to distract the attacker’s attention with a high level feint, a cut, or other distraction before kicking.

Joint Folding

Over the years it may have come to your attention that some of the joints in your body only bend in one direction, the elbows, fingers and knees being the primary ones we are interested in. A martial artist uses this knowledge to his advantage in many different ways. “Folding” is simply applying sufficient pressure to cause these extremities to bend as they would naturally.

Joint Breaking

Joint breaking is simply using the reverse action of the prior techniques and forcing the joint in an unnatural direction attempting to fold it sideways or backwards. Three of these techniques were mentioned in previous sections.
· A straight kick to front of the knee
· 45 degree kick to the side of the knee
· Breaking the elbow
Obviously breaking anyone’s joints or bones leaves you open to litigation so make sure that your actions are justifiable.

Kubotan a non-Lethal defense?

This chapter takes on a whole new perspective since the September 11, 2001 sky-jackings. Now there is a tremendous awareness of the lethality of knives and they have been immediately banned from carry-on luggage or your person for air travel world-wide. This tragedy only strengthens my argument for carrying, and knowing how to use a kubotan. There are many ways in which weapons can be smuggled on board an airplane and that means that we must have some method at hand for defending ourselves and others, should the need arise. Terrorism is no longer “over there,” it has taken on a new face right here in America and we must never let our guard down again!

[1] Fairbairn, William Ewart. Fairbairn Manual of Knife Fighting. 1955. Introduction William L. Cassidy. Internet, 1999.
[2] Dojo literally means “the place of the way”, a martial arts training hall.
[3] A machete is a long knife used for chopping brush and moving through jungle terrain.
[4] Vince: A Vietnam Veteran.
[5] RMCAT®: Rocky Mountain Combat Applications Training.
[6] The flood of adrenaline that occurs during moments of high stress.
[7] Steve Wilson: Sword Master.

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Table of Contents
(Sample portion)

Book Content
Introduction
The Elements of Conflict
Knife-Fighting Misconceptions
Awareness & Focus
The effects clothing can have on self defense
The Effects of Adrenaline and Fear
Scared Bear or Predator?
Introduction to the four knife grips
Three Ranges of Defense
Three Levels Of Parrying/Deflecting/Blocking
Two Simple Kicks
Joint Folding
Joint Breaking
Kubotan a non-Lethal defense?
Close-in Fighting
Coming to Grips
The Ice Pick Grip
Probable attack #1: Overhead Stab
Ma-ai: Small Word, Big Concept
Hollowing out; a bad technique
Passing with a Weapon
Leg Sweeps
To Aggress or not
Useful gaps in your defense
Killing Snakes
Some Very Basic Knife Techniques
Tri-Angles
Early Timing
Late Timing
Mugamae and Other Stances
The Monk’s Posture
Hittatsu no Hyoshi
Targeting, Where and What, to attack?
Technique #2: against a high thrust to your right,
using the defensive posture

SAMPLE ONLY - NOT TO BE COPIED OR SOLD

Book Content

2006-07-10T05:49:00.000-05:00

Book Content

Lines from the movie “The Lion in Winter.”

Prince John being threatened by his scheming elder brother screams:
“He's got a knife!”
Prince John’s mother, Eleanor of Aquitaine replies:
“Of course he's got a knife. You've got a knife. I've got a knife. We've all got
knives. It's 1183 and we're barbarians.”

This book is divided into four sections, three on knife self-defense concepts and techniques, and a fourth one on choosing a personal self-defense knife.

Basics: In the Basics section you will learn about the primary concepts of self-defense: awareness, focus, and mindset. You will also be introduced to three levels of blocking an attack and some elementary, but essential, self-defense techniques.

Intermediate Level: The section titled Intermediate Level builds on the previous topics providing the reader with more advanced techniques and concepts including: controlling the space, rhythm, and timing of an encounter.

Advanced Level: The Advanced Level of the book explores the more esoteric aspects involving armed conflict, many of them developed by the Samurai warriors of feudal Japan. Some of these are: not grabbing, counters to counters, and targeting. So that the reader might better understand defense against a knife attack, this section also delves into the defender’s use of the knife as an offensive or defensive weapon. You will learn counters to attacks and how to regain control of the conflict when your attacker uses those same counters against you.
Knife Selection Guide: This last section gives the reader sound advice
on selecting and buying a self-defense knife that will suit their individual needs whether they are in the military or just travelling to and from home or work.

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This sample of our Book is only 24 pages long with a lot of white space. Our complete book is 148 pages long filled with dozens of additional topics, sketches, photos, and charts. I hope that there is enough here to whet your interest in what is one of the most unique looks at self -defense against a knife attack available today. The Rhythm of One was reviewed in the May 2006 issue of Tactical Knives magazine. I hope you enjoy reading this abbreviated version of our book.

SAMPLE ONLY - NOT TO BE COPIED OR SOLD

A Special Note to our Female Readers

2006-07-08T00:50:00.000-05:00

A special note to our female readers

This book is perhaps one of the most relevant and applicable books for women’s self-defense on the market. As co-author and editor, I feel that the materials and techniques presented here are feasible and even cater to the needs of women or people of smaller stature and build. We endeavored to offer situations with responses that were based more on the principles of physics and strategy than on the use of physical strength in overcoming an attacker. Also, all of the techniques, whether defensive or offensive, will work equally well for women as they will for men. Simply put, if a technique does not work for me as a small-framed, 5’ woman, against my father, a 5’6”, 185 pound man, then the technique is not worth practicing.

The goal of this book is to teach you how to train smart. In addition, you will find valuable information on awareness, the effects of clothing in a dangerous situation, finger reaps, and adaptive weapons, all of which are sections that women in particular should find helpful and eye-opening. Whether you are a female martial artist or just someone who would like to know more about how to protect yourself in our increasingly violent world, it is my belief that this book will prove useful and informative.
~Gwynne Decker

SAMPLE ONLY - NOT TO BE COPIED OR SOLD